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Every great skincare product begins the same way - with the right ingredients, chosen for the right purpose, used at the right concentration. If you are making your first batch of handmade soap at home, launching a skincare brand, or sourcing in bulk for a cosmetic manufacturing unit, the decisions you make at the raw material stage determine everything: texture, stability, skin performance, and shelf life.
This guide breaks down exactly which chemicals and ingredients go into the most popular personal care products from bar soap and face wash to serums and lip balms.
This blog explains how to choose the right raw materials with confidence.
Start Here: The 6 Building Blocks of Every Cosmetic Product
Before choosing specific ingredients, understand the six functional categories that every cosmetic formula is built from. Once you understand what job each category does, selecting individual ingredients becomes much simpler.
|
Category |
What it does |
Common examples |
Typical % |
|
Base / Carrier |
Makes up the bulk of the product |
Distilled water, glycerin, oils |
50–85% |
|
Emulsifier |
Keeps oil and water from separating |
Emulsifying wax, BTMS-50, cetearyl alcohol |
2–8% |
|
Thickener |
Adjusts viscosity and texture |
Carbopol 940, xanthan gum, cetyl alcohol |
0.5–3% |
|
Active Ingredient |
Delivers the product's key benefit |
Niacinamide, kojic acid, salicylic acid |
0.5–10% |
|
Preservative |
Prevents microbial growth |
Phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate |
0.5–1.5% |
|
Functional Additives |
Improve texture, scent, or performance |
Fragrance oils, herbal extracts, colourants |
0.5–5% |
Most beginner formulators focus entirely on actives and completely overlook the structural ingredients - emulsifiers, thickeners, and preservatives. Getting those right is what separates a product that looks and feels professional from one that separates in the bottle or grows mould within two weeks.
Raw Materials by Product Type
Here is a practical reference for the most popular product categories. For each, we list the core chemicals you need, what they do, and how to source them from the right raw material manufacturer or suppliers.
Bar Soap (Cold Process & Hot Process)
Bar soap is made through saponification - the chemical reaction between oils and lye (sodium hydroxide). The formula is simple but the chemistry is precise. Every oil has a different SAP value that determines how much NaOH is required.
|
Ingredient |
INCI / Common name |
Function |
Usage % |
|
Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) |
Sodium Hydroxide |
Saponification agent - converts oils to soap |
Calculated per oil blend (use lye calculator) |
|
Coconut Oil / Carrier oils |
Cocos Nucifera Oil |
Base oil - determines hardness and lather |
40–60% of oil blend |
|
Olive / Castor Oil |
Olea Europaea / Ricinus Communis |
Conditioning, lather boost |
20–40% / max 10% castor |
|
Shea / Cocoa Butter |
Butyrospermum Parkii / Theobroma Cacao |
Superfat - adds creaminess and moisture |
5–20% of oil blend |
|
Fragrance Oil (Soap-grade) |
Parfum |
Scent - choose CP-stable grades |
3–5% of oil weight |
|
Kaolin / Bentonite Clay |
Kaolin / Bentonite |
Adds slip, draws impurities, harder bar |
1 tsp per 500g oils |
|
Mica / Iron Oxide |
CI 77000s |
Colour |
0.1–1% |
|
Herbal Extract (Oil Soluble) |
Varies |
Skin benefits - add at trace |
1–3% |
Lye Safety Reminder: Always add NaOH to water - never water to lye. The reaction produces significant heat. Use stainless steel containers, wear gloves and eye protection, and work in a ventilated space. BRM supplies cosmetic-grade Sodium Hydroxide NaOH at wholesale price.
Liquid Soap & Hand Wash
Liquid soap uses potassium hydroxide (KOH) instead of NaOH. The result is a soft paste that is then diluted with water. Most commercial liquid soaps are surfactant-based (not true soap) - cleaner to formulate, more consistent, and easier to preserve.
|
Ingredient |
Function |
Usage % |
BRM product |
|
SLES (28%) |
Primary surfactant - foam, cleansing |
20–30% |
Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulphate |
|
Cocamidopropyl Betaine / Coco Betaine |
Co-surfactant - mildness, foam boost |
5–15% |
Coco Betaine |
|
Glycerin |
Humectant - prevents dryness |
2–5% |
Glycerin USP |
|
Sodium Chloride (salt) |
Viscosity thickener for SLES systems |
1–3% |
Sodium Chloride |
|
Citric Acid |
pH adjustment to 5.5–6.5 |
QS to pH |
Citric Acid Anhydrous |
|
Preservative (Phenoxyethanol) |
Antimicrobial protection |
0.5–1% |
Phenoxyethanol |
|
Fragrance Oil |
Scent |
0.5–1.5% |
BRM fragrance range |
Face Wash (Standard & Sulphate-Free)
A face wash must cleanse without stripping the skin's natural moisture barrier. This means using milder surfactants at lower concentrations, maintaining pH between 5 and 6, and always including a humectant to compensate for any moisture lost during cleansing.
|
Ingredient |
Type |
Function |
Usage % |
|
Decyl Glucoside |
Gentle non-ionic surfactant |
Primary cleanser for sensitive/dry skin |
15–25% |
|
Coco Betaine |
Amphoteric co-surfactant |
Foam booster + mildness enhancer |
5–10% |
|
SLES 28% |
Anionic surfactant |
For normal skin types — stronger foam |
10–20% |
|
Glycerin |
Humectant |
Prevents dryness post-wash |
2–5% |
|
Panthenol (D-Pro Vitamin B5) |
Conditioning humectant |
Skin repair, hydration, softness |
0.5–1% |
|
Carbopol 940 (neutralised) |
Gel thickener |
Viscosity, smooth texture |
0.2–0.5% |
|
Citric Acid |
pH adjuster |
Maintain pH 5–6 |
QS |
|
Preservative |
Antimicrobial |
Product stability |
0.5–1% |
|
Fragrance Oil (Personal Care) |
Scent |
Consumer experience |
0.3–0.8% |
● For dry skin face wash: Increase glycerin to 5%, add 0.5% allantoin, reduce surfactant concentration by 5%, use Decyl Glucoside only (no SLES).
● For acne-prone skin face wash: Add salicylic acid 0.5–2% (pH-adjusted to 3.5–4.5), replace standard fragrance with tea tree essential oil 0.3%, add zinc PCA 0.5%.
Face Cream & Moisturiser
A face cream is an oil-in-water emulsion held together by an emulsifier. The emulsifier is the most critical ingredient - the wrong choice leads to separation, graininess, or an unstable product within days. Structure it in phases and always combine your oil phase and water phase at the same temperature (65–70°C) before cooling.
|
Phase |
Ingredient |
Function |
Usage % |
|
A - Water |
Distilled Water |
Base solvent |
To 100% |
|
A - Water |
Glycerin |
Humectant |
3–5% |
|
A - Water |
Hyaluronic Acid (HA) |
Deep hydration, plumping |
0.1–1% |
|
B - Oil |
Emulsifying Wax NF / Cetearyl Alcohol |
Primary emulsifier |
4–6% |
|
B - Oil |
Cetyl Alcohol |
Co-emulsifier, thickener, texture |
2–4% |
|
B - Oil |
Shea Butter / Carrier Oil |
Emollient, skin nourishment |
5–15% |
|
B - Oil |
Stearic Acid |
Hardener, rich texture |
1–3% |
|
C - Cool down |
Niacinamide |
Brightening, pore-tightening active |
2–5% |
|
C - Cool down |
Preservative |
Antimicrobial stability |
0.5–1% |
|
C - Cool down |
Fragrance Oil |
Scent |
0.3–0.8% |
Add Phase B to Phase A at 65–70°C and blend with a hand mixer or homogeniser until emulsified. Cool to below 40°C before adding Phase C. Do not add actives like niacinamide at high temperatures - they degrade.
Face Serum (Water-Based)
A serum is a lightweight, high-concentration delivery system for active ingredients. It penetrates faster than a cream because it has no heavy occlusive layer. pH management is critical - many key actives only work within a narrow pH window.
|
Serum type |
Key actives |
Supporting ingredients |
Target pH |
|
Brightening |
Niacinamide 4–5%, Kojic Acid 1% |
Glycerin, HA, Allantoin |
5.5–7 |
|
Anti-dark spots |
Alpha Arbutin 2%, Kojic Acid 1% |
Glycerin, Panthenol, Aloe extract |
5–6 |
|
Anti-acne |
Salicylic Acid 1–2%, Niacinamide 3% |
Zinc PCA 1%, Tea tree extract |
3.5–4.5 |
|
Hydrating |
Hyaluronic Acid 0.5–1% |
Glycerin 5%, Panthenol 1%, Allantoin 0.3% |
5.5–7 |
|
Anti-aging |
Retinol 0.025–0.1% |
HA, Niacinamide 3%, Peptide 2% |
5–6 |
|
Acne marks / dark spots |
Kojic Acid 2%, Glycolic Acid 5% |
Niacinamide 3%, Licorice extract 2% |
3.5–4 |
Important: Any serum containing water must be preserved. Phenoxyethanol at 0.5–1% is the most widely used and compatible option. Oil-based anhydrous serums (no water phase) do not require broad-spectrum preservation.
Acne Treatment & Dark Spot Products
These are the most searched skincare concerns in India. The key is using proven actives at effective concentrations, choosing the right product format, and ensuring pH compatibility between ingredients.
|
Concern |
Best active(s) |
Secondary actives |
Product format |
|
Active acne / breakouts |
Salicylic Acid 0.5–2% |
Niacinamide 3–5%, Zinc PCA 1% |
Face wash, toner, spot treatment |
|
Post-acne marks (PIH) |
Kojic Acid 1–2%, Niacinamide 5% |
Alpha Arbutin 2%, Glycolic Acid 5% |
Serum, cream, face mask |
|
Dark spots / hyperpigmentation |
Kojic Acid 2%, Alpha Arbutin 2% |
Vitamin C (MAP) 0.5%, Licorice extract |
Serum, night cream |
|
Oily / congested skin |
Salicylic Acid 1–2%, Glycolic Acid 5% |
Niacinamide 5%, Zinc PCA 1% |
Face wash, toner, mask |
|
Combination (acne + dark spots) |
Kojic Acid 1% + Salicylic Acid 1% |
Niacinamide 5%, Panthenol 1% |
Day serum + spot treatment |
Face Mask & Face Pack
Face masks and packs come in several formats - clay, gel, peel-off, cream, and powder. Clay masks are the easiest to formulate and the highest performers for oily and acne-prone skin. Powder face packs (ubtan-style) require no preservatives and have a long shelf life.
|
Mask type |
Key ingredients |
Skin benefit |
Typical formula structure |
|
Clay mask (rinse-off) |
Kaolin clay 20–40%, Bentonite 10% |
Deep cleansing, oil control, pore minimising |
Clay + water/hydrosol + glycerin + EO |
|
Charcoal detox mask |
Activated charcoal 3–5%, Kaolin 20% |
Removes toxins, brightens, unclogs pores |
Clay + charcoal + water + preservative |
|
Gel mask (hydrating) |
Carbopol 0.5%, HA 1%, Allantoin 0.3% |
Intense hydration, barrier repair |
Water + HA + Carbopol + glycerin |
|
Powder face pack (ubtan) |
Multani mitti, turmeric, neem powder |
Brightening, antibacterial, exfoliation |
Powder blend - add water/milk before use |
|
Brightening mask |
Kojic Acid 1%, Niacinamide 3%, Clay 20% |
Fades spots, even skin tone |
Clay base + actives + preservative |
|
Anti-acne mask |
Salicylic Acid 1%, Bentonite 20% |
Clears breakouts, controls sebum |
Clay + SA + glycerin + tea tree essential oil |
Lip Balm (Anhydrous / No Water)
Lip balms are one of the easiest formulations to start with because they contain no water - which means no emulsifier, no preservative required, and a simple melt-and-pour process. The formula is essentially a blend of waxes, butters, and oils.
|
Ingredient |
Function |
Usage % |
|
Beeswax / Carnauba Wax |
Hardener - determines stick firmness |
15–30% |
|
Shea Butter / Cocoa Butter |
Moisturiser, melts on lips |
20–35% |
|
Castor Oil |
Gives gloss, viscosity booster |
10–20% |
|
Sweet Almond / Jojoba Oil |
Emollient, light skin feel |
10–20% |
|
Lanolin (optional) |
Deep moisture, occlusive barrier |
2–5% |
|
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate) |
Antioxidant, extends shelf life |
0.5–1% |
|
Fragrance Oil / Essential Oil |
Scent - use lip-safe grade |
0.5–1% |
|
Mica / Lip-safe colourant |
Colour (for tinted balms) |
0.1–0.5% |
Lipstick
Lipstick formulation requires more precision than lip balm because the wax ratio and emollient balance determine how the stick pours, sets, feels on application, and transfers. Colour intensity depends on pigment load and dispersion quality.
|
Ingredient |
Function |
Usage % |
|
Carnauba Wax |
High-melt hardener - gives structure |
3–8% |
|
Beeswax |
Cohesion, slip |
8–15% |
|
Candelilla Wax |
Vegan wax hardener |
3–5% |
|
Castor Oil |
Primary film former, gloss |
20–35% |
|
Cocoa Butter / Shea Butter |
Moisturisation, texture |
10–20% |
|
Isopropyl Myristate |
Slip, spreadability |
5–10% |
|
Lip-safe Mica / Iron Oxides |
Primary colour pigments |
5–20% |
|
Titanium Dioxide |
White opacity base for lighter shades |
2–5% |
|
Fragrance Oil (lip-safe) |
Scent, flavour note |
0.3–0.5% |
|
Vitamin E |
Antioxidant, lip conditioning |
0.5–1% |
Disperse mica pigments in a small amount of castor oil first before adding to the wax melt. Undispersed pigments create streaks and uneven colour in the finished stick.
Complete Raw Material Reference: Top Chemicals from BRM
This is a consolidated reference guide covering the most important cosmetic chemicals available at BRM, organised by function. Use this as a formulator's quick reference when building any skincare or personal care product.
Actives - Skin-Targeting Ingredients
|
Ingredient |
Key benefit |
Effective % range |
Compatible with |
Not compatible with |
|
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) |
Brightening, pore tightening, barrier repair |
2–10% |
Hyaluronic acid, ceramides, most actives |
High-dose Vitamin C (can cause flushing) |
|
Kojic Acid |
Melanin inhibition, dark spot fading |
1–4% (leave-on), up to 4% in soap |
Niacinamide, alpha arbutin |
High pH products (above 7) |
|
Salicylic Acid |
BHA exfoliant, pore clearing, anti-acne |
0.5–2% (leave-on) |
Niacinamide, zinc PCA |
Very high or very low pH |
|
Glycolic Acid 70% |
AHA exfoliation, texture improvement, dark spots |
Dilute to 2–10% in formula |
Hyaluronic acid |
Retinol, benzoyl peroxide at same time |
|
Alpha Arbutin |
Slow, gentle dark spot correction |
0.5–2% |
Niacinamide, hyaluronic acid |
Strong acids (degrades) |
|
Hyaluronic Acid |
Deep hydration, plumping, water retention |
0.1–1% |
Everything — extremely compatible |
Nothing significant |
|
Retinol |
Anti-aging, cell turnover, collagen support |
0.025–0.3% |
Niacinamide, squalane |
AHAs/BHAs at same time, sunlight |
|
Zinc PCA |
Sebum regulation, anti-acne, soothing |
0.5–2% |
Niacinamide, salicylic acid |
Most compatible |
Emulsifiers & Texturisers
|
Ingredient |
Type |
Primary use |
Usage % |
|
Emulsifying Wax NF |
Non-ionic emulsifier |
Creams, lotions — general purpose |
4–8% |
|
BTMS-50 |
Cationic conditioning emulsifier |
Hair conditioners, leave-in treatments, hair masks |
4–8% |
|
Cetearyl Alcohol |
Co-emulsifier, thickener |
Creams, lotions, hair conditioners |
2–5% |
|
Cetyl Alcohol |
Fatty alcohol thickener/emollient |
Face creams, face wash, body lotion |
2–6% |
|
Stearic Acid |
Hardener, thickener |
Creams, body butter, lip products |
1–3% |
|
Carbopol 940 |
Synthetic gel thickener |
Serums, gels, face wash, hand sanitiser |
0.2–0.5% |
|
Xanthan Gum |
Natural biopolymer thickener |
Natural serums, hair masks, gel-based products |
0.2–1% |
Surfactants - Cleansing System
|
Ingredient |
Type |
Mildness |
Best for |
Usage % |
|
SLES 28% |
Anionic |
Moderate |
Body wash, shampoo, liquid soap |
15–30% |
|
SCI Powder |
Anionic (solid) |
Very mild |
Shampoo bars, cleansing bars, powder cleansers |
20–60% |
|
Decyl Glucoside |
Non-ionic |
Very gentle |
Sulphate-free face wash, baby wash, sensitive skin |
10–25% |
|
Coco Betaine |
Amphoteric |
Mild |
Co-surfactant in all cleansers — foam booster |
5–15% |
Humectants & Skin Conditioners
|
Ingredient |
Function |
Usage % |
Products |
|
Glycerin |
Draws moisture to skin, prevents dryness |
1–5% |
All water-based products |
|
Panthenol (Pro-Vit B5) |
Skin repair, hydration, softness |
0.5–1% |
Face wash, serum, cream, hair care |
|
Allantoin |
Skin soothing, healing, anti-irritant |
0.1–0.5% |
Serums, sensitive skin products, face wash |
|
Hyaluronic Acid |
Deep hydration, plumping |
0.1–1% |
Serums, creams, face wash |
Preservatives
|
Preservative |
Type |
Usage % |
Effective pH |
Notes |
|
Phenoxyethanol |
Synthetic broad-spectrum |
0.5–1% |
4–10 |
Most widely used, excellent compatibility |
|
Potassium Sorbate |
Natural (fruit-derived) |
0.1–0.2% |
≤6 |
Use with sodium benzoate for broader spectrum |
|
Sodium Benzoate |
Natural origin option |
0.1–0.5% |
≤5.5 |
pH-dependent — only effective in acidic products |
Rule: Any product that contains water must be preserved. No exceptions - an unpreserved water-based product will grow bacteria and mould. A preservative challenge test (PET) is the only way to confirm your product is protected.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What is the most important ingredient to get right in any cosmetic formulation?
A: The preservative, always. Beginners focus on actives and overlook preservation. Any formula that contains water - serum, cream, face wash, lotion will spoil without a properly chosen and tested preservative. Phenoxyethanol at 0.5–1% is the most reliable starting choice for most formulations.
Q: Can I use the same ingredients for face wash and shampoo?
A: Yes, with adjustments. Both rely on surfactant systems, but shampoos typically use stronger anionic surfactants at higher concentrations (SLES at 15–25%) and include conditioning agents. Face washes should use milder surfactants (Decyl Glucoside, Coco Betaine) and stay at pH 5–6. The surfactant system and pH targets are different even if individual ingredients overlap.
Q: Where to buy cosmetic raw materials in India for retail and bulk?
A: BRM Chemicals supplies all the ingredients listed in this guide - from 100g starter quantities for DIY users to 5kg and 10kg bulk packs for brands and manufacturers. Every product comes with Certificate of Analysis (COA) documentation. Free delivery across India. Visit brmchemicals.com/collections/chemicals or contact us directly for B2B bulk pricing.
Q: Is niacinamide and kojic acid a good combination for dark spots?
A: Yes, one of the best. Kojic acid inhibits melanin production, while niacinamide addresses melanin transfer to the skin surface and strengthens the skin barrier. Together at 1–2% kojic acid and 3–5% niacinamide in a serum or cream, they produce faster, more visible results than either ingredient used alone. Maintain pH between 5.5 and 6.5 for stability.
Q: Do I need an emulsifier in a face serum?
A: Only if your serum contains both oil and water phases. A typical water-based serum (HA, niacinamide, glycerin, water) needs no emulsifier - it is a single-phase water system. A hybrid serum with oils (like a vitamin C oil or rosehip oil component alongside water-soluble actives) requires a solubiliser or emulsifier to prevent separation.
Q: What is the minimum order quantity at BRM Chemicals?
A: BRM sells from 100g for retail and DIY users all the way to 5kg, 10kg and bulk quantities for brands and manufacturers. There is no minimum order - which makes BRM ideal whether you are testing a new formula or running a full production batch. Bulk pricing applies from 1kg onwards on most products.
Start Formulating with BRM Chemicals
Everything in this guide; every active, every emulsifier, every surfactant, every preservative is available directly from BRM Chemicals. We have been supplying cosmetic raw materials to brands, formulators, and home makers across India for over 35 years. Our clients include Biotique, The Organic Company, Javees Herbal, and thousands of independent beauty entrepreneurs.
Whether you are sourcing 100g to test your first formula or 10kg for your production run, BRM delivers with consistent quality, COA documentation, and free pan-India shipping.